How to Remove Bike Pedals (and Which Way They Unscrew)

Removing bike pedals is one of the quickest jobs in home bike maintenance, and one of the most commonly botched. The reason is a single quirk that trips up nearly everyone the first time: the left pedal unscrews backwards. Get that one fact right and the whole job takes five minutes. Get it wrong and you will swear the pedal is welded on, while actually tightening it harder.

This guide gives you the answer up front, explains the tools you need, and walks through removing and reinstalling pedals step by step, including how to free a stuck one. Whether you are boxing a bike for travel, swapping to new pedals, or servicing the cranks, this is everything you need.

Quick Answer: Which Way Do Bike Pedals Unscrew?

The two pedals have different threads, and this is the key to the whole job:

• The right (drive-side) pedal has a normal thread. It unscrews counterclockwise and tightens clockwise.
• The left (non-drive-side) pedal is reverse-threaded. It unscrews clockwise and tightens counterclockwise.

The foolproof trick that works on both sides: to loosen either pedal, turn the top of the wrench toward the rear of the bike. To tighten, turn it toward the front. Remember that, and you never have to think about thread direction again.

Why Is the Left Pedal Reverse-Threaded?

It is not a mistake or an inconvenience; it is clever engineering. As you pedal, the spinning motion of the pedal against the crank threads creates a subtle force that tends to unscrew a normal thread over time. This is called precession.

On the right side, a standard right-hand thread happens to resist this force. On the left side, a standard thread would slowly work itself loose as you ride, eventually falling out. So the left pedal uses a reverse (left-hand) thread, which the pedaling motion tightens rather than loosens. In other words, the reverse thread keeps your left pedal locked in place the harder you ride. It only feels backwards when you go to remove it.

Tools You Need

Pedals accept one of two tools, and sometimes both. Check yours before you start.

• A 15mm pedal wrench. Older and many flat pedals have wrench flats on the spindle between the pedal body and the crank. These need a 15mm wrench. A dedicated pedal wrench is worth owning: its thin jaws fit the narrow flats, and its long handle (around 12 inches) gives the leverage that overtightened pedals demand. A regular 15mm wrench can work, but its short handle makes stubborn pedals hard to break free.
• A 6mm or 8mm hex (Allen) key. Most modern clipless and many flat pedals have no wrench flats. Instead, they take a hex key inserted into the back of the spindle, reached from behind the crank arm. Most use 8mm; some use 6mm.

A quick note on spindle sizes: nearly all adult bikes use a 9/16 inch pedal thread. Only some inexpensive or older bikes with one-piece cranks use a 1/2 inch thread. Replacement pedals must match, but for removal it does not matter.

How to Tell the Left Pedal from the Right

Before you turn anything, identify which pedal is which. Most pedals are stamped “L” and “R” on the spindle, right where it meets the crank. If yours are not marked, remember the left pedal is always the one on the non-drive side, opposite the chain and chainrings. You can also look at the threads: right-hand threads slope up to the right, left-hand threads slope up to the left.

Getting this right matters, because turning the left pedal the “normal” way only tightens it further, which is exactly why people think a pedal is seized when it is not.

How to Remove Bike Pedals, Step by Step

1. Shift the chain onto the largest chainring. This is a safety step. If your wrench slips, the chainring teeth are covered by the chain rather than waiting to cut your knuckles.
2. Secure the bike. A repair stand is ideal, as it holds the bike steady, lets you position the cranks, and puts the pedals at a comfortable height. Leaning the bike firmly against a wall also works.
3. Position the crank for leverage. Rotate the crank arm you are working on so it points forward, roughly to the three o’clock position, and set your wrench so the handle points toward the rear of the bike.
4. Loosen the right pedal. With the wrench on the right pedal, push it so it turns counterclockwise, which means pressing the handle down and toward the back of the bike. Pedals are often very tight, so do not be afraid to use firm, controlled force.
5. Loosen the left pedal. Move to the non-drive side. The left pedal turns clockwise to loosen, but the direction trick is identical: turn the top of the wrench toward the rear of the bike. If it feels immovable, double-check you are not turning it the wrong way, which would be tightening it.
6. Unscrew by hand and remove. Once the pedal breaks free, set the wrench aside and spin the pedal out by hand. Undo the final few threads by hand to avoid damaging the crank’s threads and to catch the pedal before it drops.
7. Keep the pedals separate. The left and right pedals have opposite threads and are not interchangeable. Label or separate them so you reinstall each on the correct side.

The whole job should take only a few minutes per pedal once the initial resistance is broken.

The Foolproof Direction Trick

If you remember nothing else, remember this: on both sides, turn the wrench toward the back of the bike to loosen, and toward the front to tighten.

This works no matter which pedal you are on, and it is especially useful with hex-key pedals, where the tool is behind the crank and “clockwise” versus “counterclockwise” becomes confusing to picture. Forget clockwise entirely, think front and back, and the thread direction sorts itself out.

How to Free a Stuck or Seized Pedal

Pedals that have been on a bike for years, especially a steel spindle threaded into an aluminum crank, can seize through corrosion. If a pedal will not budge:

• Confirm your direction first. The most common “stuck pedal” is simply someone turning the reverse-threaded left pedal the wrong way. Double-check before applying force.
• Add leverage. A longer pedal wrench, or a length of pipe slipped over your wrench handle, multiplies your force. Push down through the wrench while bracing against the opposite crank or pedal.
• Apply penetrating oil. Spray the threads where the spindle meets the crank, let it soak for several minutes or longer, then try again.
• Use heat as a last resort. Carefully warming the crank around the spindle can break a corrosion bond, but this is best left to those confident with the technique, or to a bike shop.
• Protect yourself. Keep the chain on the big ring, wear gloves, and position yourself so that if the wrench slips, you will not strike anything sharp.

If a pedal still will not move, a bike shop can remove it without damaging the crank, which is cheaper than replacing a crank arm you have rounded off or cracked.

How to Install Pedals (So They Come Off Next Time)

Reinstalling is the reverse, with one step that saves you future grief.

1. Grease the threads. Apply a thin layer of bike grease to the spindle threads. This prevents the pedal seizing into the crank and makes removal easy next time. This single step is the difference between a five-minute job and a seized mess next season.
2. Match the pedal to the side. Right pedal to the right (drive-side) crank, left to the left. Check the “L” and “R” stamps.
3. Start by hand. Thread each pedal in by hand first, turning the right pedal clockwise and the left pedal counterclockwise. Starting by hand is essential to avoid cross-threading, which can ruin the crank. The pedal should turn in easily; if it resists immediately, back it out and realign.
4. Tighten firmly. Once hand-tight, snug each pedal with the wrench or hex key. Turn toward the front of the bike to tighten. Pedals should be tight, as the pedaling action keeps them secure, but avoid cranking on them excessively.
5. Spin to check. Each pedal should rotate smoothly with no wobble or grinding before you ride.

Common Mistakes

• Turning the left pedal the wrong way. The number-one error. The left pedal loosens clockwise. If it will not move counterclockwise, that is because you are tightening it.
• Forgetting the “toward the rear to loosen” rule, and getting lost in clockwise-versus-counterclockwise, especially with hex-key pedals.
• Not covering the chainring. A slipped wrench and exposed chainring teeth is how knuckles get cut. Shift to the big ring first.
• Skipping grease on installation. Ungreased threads seize, turning an easy job into a stuck-pedal ordeal later.
• Cross-threading on installation. Always start the pedal by hand, never with a tool.
• Mixing up left and right pedals, which have opposite threads and will not thread onto the wrong side.

Frequently Asked Questions

Which way do you turn to remove bike pedals? The right pedal unscrews counterclockwise; the left pedal unscrews clockwise because it is reverse-threaded. The easy way to remember both: turn the top of the wrench toward the rear of the bike to loosen either pedal, and toward the front to tighten.

Are both bike pedals reverse-threaded? No. Only the left (non-drive-side) pedal is reverse-threaded, loosening clockwise. The right (drive-side) pedal has a standard thread and loosens counterclockwise. This difference exists so the left pedal does not unscrew itself as you ride.

Why won’t my bike pedal come off? The most common reason is turning the reverse-threaded left pedal the wrong way, which tightens it. Confirm the direction first. If the direction is right and it still will not budge, the pedal may be seized from corrosion, so use more leverage, apply penetrating oil and let it soak, or take it to a bike shop.

What size wrench do I need to remove bike pedals? Pedals with wrench flats need a 15mm pedal wrench. Many modern clipless and flat pedals instead use a 6mm or 8mm hex (Allen) key inserted into the back of the spindle. Check your pedals to see which they take; some accept both.

Do I need a special pedal wrench? Not always, but it helps. Pedals with hex fittings only need an 8mm or 6mm Allen key. For pedals with wrench flats, a dedicated pedal wrench is worth it: its thin jaws fit the narrow flats and its long handle provides the leverage that tight or seized pedals require, which a standard wrench often cannot.

Which way does the left bike pedal unscrew? Clockwise. The left pedal is reverse-threaded, so it loosens clockwise and tightens counterclockwise, the opposite of a normal bolt. Turning the top of the wrench toward the back of the bike will loosen it correctly.

Should I grease bike pedal threads? Yes. Applying a thin layer of bike grease to the spindle threads before installation prevents the pedal from seizing into the crank arm and makes future removal far easier. It takes seconds and saves a lot of trouble later.

Conclusion

Removing bike pedals is genuinely a five-minute job once you know the one thing that catches everyone out: the left pedal is reverse-threaded, so it loosens clockwise while the right loosens counterclockwise. Simplify it further by remembering that both pedals loosen when you turn the wrench toward the back of the bike.

Cover your chainring for safety, use the right tool for your pedals, break the pedal free with firm force, and finish by hand. When you reinstall, grease the threads so the job stays easy next time. With those basics, swapping pedals for travel, replacement, or an upgrade becomes one of the simplest skills in your maintenance toolkit.

About Cycling Trend

Cycling Trend is a cycling resource covering road, gravel, mountain, and everyday riding. We produce practical, research-backed guides on bike buying, fit, gear, maintenance, and training to help riders of every level make confident decisions and spend more time enjoying the ride. Learn more at cyclingtrend.com.

Disclaimer

This guide is for general information only. Pedal, crank, and thread components can be damaged by incorrect technique, and cross-threading or forcing a seized pedal can ruin a crank arm. If a pedal is stuck, or you are unsure about tools, thread direction, or reinstallation, consult a qualified bike mechanic. Always keep the chain on the largest chainring and protect your hands when applying force.

Recommended Reading

• Complete Home Bike Maintenance Guide: Schedule and Checklist

• Best Pedals for Road Cycling

• How to Fix a Flat Bike Tire: Roadside and At Home

• Cycling FAQs and Glossary for Beginners

References

• Park Tool, Pedal Installation and Removal
• BikeRadar, How to Fit, Remove and Change Bike Pedals
• The Pro’s Closet, How to Install, Remove and Change Bike Pedals
• Road Bike Rider, Basics of Installing and Removing Bicycle Pedals