Glossary

Finding a trustworthy local bike shop is key to a great cycling experience. For a comprehensive list of recommended retailers and what to look for in a quality store, explore our Australian bike sales guide, which covers major cities and online stores.

For beginners, the essentials include a quality helmet, padded shorts, and a reliable water bottle. As you progress, you might consider gloves and cycling shoes. Our guide to women’s cycling gear offers a great overview of essential items for comfort and safety on the road.

Choosing the right bike size depends on your height, inseam, and riding style. A professional bike fit is always recommended, but you can get a good starting point by checking manufacturer size charts. For more details, see our guide for tall riders.

A great pair of cycling sunglasses should offer UV protection, a secure fit, and interchangeable lenses for different light conditions. Look for features like anti-fog coatings and a lightweight frame for maximum comfort. Discover our top picks in our review of the best cycling sunglasses.

Premium cycling jerseys offer significant advantages in comfort, aerodynamics, and moisture-wicking performance. They use advanced fabrics and a more ergonomic fit, which can make a noticeable difference on long rides. Explore our recommendations for the best summer cycling jerseys to learn more.

Road bikes are designed for speed on paved surfaces, featuring lightweight frames and drop handlebars. Hybrid bikes offer a more upright riding position and are versatile enough for both roads and light trails. Our guide to the best hybrid bikes can help you decide.

Most manufacturers recommend replacing your helmet every 3-5 years, as the protective materials can degrade over time. You should always replace your helmet immediately after any impact or crash. Find your next lid in our guide to the best cycling helmets.

A GPS bike computer allows you to track your rides, monitor performance metrics like speed and distance, and navigate new routes with confidence. Many models also sync with other sensors like heart rate monitors. Check out our review of the best bike computers with GPS.

A basic bike tool kit should include a multi-tool, tyre levers, a spare inner tube, a patch kit, and a portable pump or CO2 inflator. This will cover most common roadside repairs. For a detailed breakdown, see our guide to the best bike tool kits.

The best commuting bike depends on your route, distance, and budget. Look for features like mudguard and rack mounts, durable tyres, and comfortable geometry. Our list of the best commuter bikes provides excellent options for all types of riders.

Carbon fibre road bikes are prized for their lightweight, stiffness, and vibration-damping properties, which translate to a faster and more comfortable ride. While more expensive, they offer a significant performance advantage. Discover affordable options in our guide to the best carbon road bikes under $2000.

For overweight riders, durability and comfort are key. Hybrid or mountain bikes with strong frames, wide tyres, and a comfortable, upright riding position are often the best choice. We cover the top options in our dedicated guide to the best bikes for overweight riders.

There are many great storage solutions for garages, including wall-mounted racks, ceiling hoists, and freestanding stands. The best option depends on your space and the number of bikes you have. Explore our top recommendations in this guide to the best garage bike storage racks.

Yes, padded cycling shorts (or bibs) are essential for comfort on rides longer than a few kilometres. The chamois pad reduces friction, wicks moisture, and provides cushioning against the saddle. Find the perfect pair in our review of the best padded cycling shorts for women.

A hitch-mounted bike rack attaches to the tow hitch receiver on your vehicle, providing a secure and convenient way to transport one or more bikes. They are easy to load and minimise the risk of scratching your car. Learn more in our ultimate hitch rack guide.

Cycling gloves provide better grip on the handlebars, absorb vibrations from the road to reduce hand fatigue, and protect your hands in the event of a crash. Many also feature padding for extra comfort. See our top picks for the best gloves for long rides.

A single-speed bike has only one gear, making it simple, lightweight, and low-maintenance. They are a popular choice for city riding and for cyclists who want a pure, connected riding experience. Our guide to the best single-speed bikes is a great place to start.

The best winter cycling gloves offer insulation, windproofing, and water resistance without sacrificing dexterity for shifting and braking. Look for features like a soft nose wipe and touchscreen compatibility. We’ve tested the top options in our guide to the best winter cycling gloves.

Proper cycling shoes have stiff soles that transfer power efficiently to the pedals. The right shoe depends on your pedal system (e.g., SPD, Look) and riding style. Our road cycling shoe guide breaks down everything you need to know to find the perfect fit.

A good beginner road bike should have a comfortable, endurance-focused geometry, reliable components, and a price point that matches your budget. Aluminium frames often provide the best value for new riders. Find your first road bike in our beginner road bike guide.

A balance bike is a small, two-wheeled bike without pedals, designed to teach toddlers and young children how to balance and steer before they transition to a pedal bike. It is widely considered the best way to learn to ride. Find the right one in our guide to the best bikes for kids.

Most children can start using a balance bike as early as 18 months to 2 years old, or as soon as they can walk confidently. The key is ensuring their feet can rest flat on the ground while seated. Our guide on kids’ bikes has more sizing tips.

Children’s bikes are sized by wheel diameter (e.g., 12-inch, 16-inch). The right size allows the child to stand over the top tube with flat feet and comfortably reach the handlebars. Avoid buying a bike that is too big for them to grow into. See our kids’ bike guide for a size chart.

While traditional, training wheels teach children to pedal but not how to balance, which is the harder skill. Balance bikes are now the preferred method for teaching riding, as they focus on balance first, making the transition to pedals much smoother and faster.

Look for a lightweight frame (preferably aluminium), child-specific components like small-reach brake levers, and simple gearing. Quality construction is important for safety and durability. Our guide to the best bikes for kids highlights top models.

The best bike for a teenager depends on their intended use—mountain biking, road riding, or commuting. A versatile hybrid or a durable mountain bike is often a great starting point. We cover a range of options in our guide to the best bikes for teenagers.

For a child’s first pedal bike (usually 16-inch or 20-inch wheels), a single-speed is often best. It allows them to focus on pedalling, steering, and braking without the complexity of shifting gears. As they grow more confident, a bike with gears is a great next step.

A BMX (Bicycle Motocross) bike is a small, durable bike designed for racing on dirt tracks or performing freestyle tricks. They typically have 20-inch wheels and a simple, rugged construction. Check out our guide to the best BMX bikes for adults to learn more.

Start by teaching them to use the rear brake first to avoid sudden stops that could cause a fall. Many kids’ bikes have a coaster (back-pedal) brake, which is intuitive. For hand brakes, practice in a safe, open area at low speeds.

A properly fitting helmet is non-negotiable. Other important safety gear includes closed-toe shoes, and bright-coloured clothing for visibility. For mountain biking, gloves and knee/elbow pads are also recommended. Find the right helmet in our cycling helmet guide.

A kids’ mountain bike will have wider, knobby tyres for off-road traction, and may include suspension forks and a wider range of gears. A regular kids’ bike is simpler and designed for paved surfaces. See examples in our mountain bike guide.

Make it an adventure! Plan rides to fun destinations like a playground or ice cream shop, ride with their friends, and let them help choose the route. Decorating their bike with bells or streamers can also add to the excitement.

Vintage-style bikes can be a fun and stylish choice, but ensure they are lightweight and have modern, reliable components. Some retro bikes can be very heavy, making them difficult for a child to handle. Explore stylish options in our vintage bike guide.

A cargo bike is designed to carry passengers or large items, making it a great car replacement for families. They come in various styles, including longtails with an extended rear rack or box bikes with a large container in the front. Learn more in our guide to the best cargo bikes.

Regular maintenance includes checking tyre pressure, lubricating the chain, and ensuring the brakes are working correctly. It’s also a great opportunity to teach your child basic bike care. For more detailed tips, visit our bicycle maintenance section.

In Australia, regulations for electric bikes vary by state, but generally, riders must be over a certain age (often 16) to use a throttle-assisted e-bike on public roads. Pedal-assist e-bikes may have different rules. It’s best to check your local regulations.

Finding a quality bike under $500 can be challenging, but it’s possible if you focus on reputable brands and simple designs, like single-speed or rigid hybrid bikes. Check out our guide to the best value bikes under $500 for our top recommendations.

A fixie, or fixed-gear bike, has a drivetrain with no freewheel, meaning the pedals are always in motion when the rear wheel is spinning. They are known for their simplicity and the unique, connected feel they provide. Discover more in our guide to the best fixie bikes.

The best bikes for college students are typically affordable, durable, and low-maintenance. A hybrid or a single-speed bike is often a great choice for getting around campus. See our top picks in the guide to the best bikes for college students.

A folding bike is designed to fold into a compact form, making it easy to store in an apartment, carry onto public transport, or fit in the boot of a car. They are an excellent solution for urban commuters with limited space. Explore the options in our folding bike guide.

An electric bike, or e-bike, is a bicycle with an integrated electric motor to assist with pedalling. This allows riders to go faster, tackle hills with ease, and travel longer distances without getting tired. Explore different types in our guide to electric gravel bikes.

In Australia, the motor on a pedal-assist e-bike is legally required to cut out once you reach a speed of 25 km/h. You can ride faster than this, but it will be under your own power. This regulation ensures e-bikes are safe for use on public roads and paths.

A pedal-assist e-bike provides motor assistance only when you are actively pedalling. A throttle-based e-bike has a grip or button that engages the motor without any need to pedal, similar to a scooter. Most e-bikes sold in Australia are pedal-assist to comply with road laws.

The range of an e-bike depends on the battery capacity, terrain, rider weight, and level of assistance used. Most modern e-bikes have a range of 50 to 150 kilometres on a single charge. Higher-end models like the Merida eMTB often have larger batteries for extended range.

Yes, electric bikes are an excellent option for seniors. The motor assistance makes cycling more accessible, helping to overcome hills and long distances that might otherwise be a barrier. We have a dedicated guide to the best e-bikes for seniors that focuses on comfort and safety.

An electric gravel bike combines the versatility of a gravel bike with the assistance of an electric motor. This allows riders to explore dirt roads, forest trails, and paved paths with more confidence and less fatigue. Discover the possibilities in our article on electric gravel bikes.

A full charge for a standard e-bike battery typically takes between 4 to 6 hours. The exact time will depend on the battery’s size and the charger’s output. Most batteries can be charged on or off the bike for convenience.

No, you do not need a license to ride a pedal-assist electric bike that complies with Australian standards (motor of 250 watts or less, assistance cuts out at 25 km/h). However, more powerful e-bikes may be classified as mopeds and require registration and a license.

eMTBs are fantastic for trail riding. The motor assistance helps you power up climbs, allowing you to save energy for the descents and ride more laps in a day. Modern eMTBs like the Merida Alloy eMTB are designed with trail-specific geometry and suspension.

Entry-level electric bikes can start around $1,500, while mid-range models are typically $3,000-$6,000. High-performance electric mountain and road bikes can cost upwards of $10,000. The price reflects the quality of the motor, battery, and components.

Yes, most modern e-bikes are designed to be water-resistant and can be ridden in the rain. However, you should avoid fully submerging the motor or battery and take care on wet surfaces. A good waterproof jacket is also essential.

E-bike maintenance is similar to a regular bike, including cleaning the chain, checking tyre pressure, and servicing the brakes. The main difference is caring for the battery by avoiding extreme temperatures and not letting it fully discharge for long periods. Visit our maintenance section for more tips.

The most reputable e-bike motor manufacturers are Bosch, Shimano, Brose, and Yamaha. These brands are known for their reliability, smooth power delivery, and excellent after-sales support. You’ll find them on most quality e-bikes from major brands like Trek and Specialized.

Yes, but you need a bike rack that can handle the extra weight, as e-bikes are significantly heavier than non-electric bikes. Look for a sturdy, hitch-mounted platform rack designed specifically for e-bikes. Our hitch rack guide has some suitable options.

Absolutely. Many e-bikes, particularly those with robust frames like electric mountain or hybrid bikes, are well-suited for heavier riders. The motor assistance can make cycling more comfortable and enjoyable. See our guide on bikes for overweight riders for tips on what to look for.

A full-suspension electric mountain bike (eMTB) has both front and rear suspension, providing maximum comfort and control on rough, technical trails. This makes them ideal for serious off-road adventures. The Merida eMTB is a great example of a modern trail-ready e-bike.

Yes, you can definitely get a great workout on an e-bike. You are still pedalling, and you can choose the level of assistance. Many riders find they exercise for longer and more often on an e-bike because it’s so enjoyable. You can track your effort with a heart rate monitor.

Most modern lithium-ion e-bike batteries are designed to last for 500 to 1,000 charge cycles. With regular use, this typically translates to 3 to 5 years of service before the capacity begins to noticeably diminish. Proper care can extend this lifespan.

Electric road bikes are a growing category, popular with riders who want to keep up with faster groups, tackle challenging climbs, or simply enjoy longer rides with less fatigue. They are designed to be lightweight and look very similar to their non-electric counterparts.

For commuting, look for an e-bike with integrated lights, mudguards, and a rear rack for carrying luggage. A comfortable, upright riding position and durable, puncture-resistant tyres are also important features. Our guide to commuter bikes has more tips.

The best padded cycling shorts for women feature a female-specific chamois, a comfortable waistband, and compressive fabric. Look for brands that offer different pad densities for various ride lengths. Find your perfect pair in our detailed review of the best women’s padded shorts.

Cycling shorts are held up by a waistband, while bib shorts use shoulder straps. Most serious cyclists prefer bibs as they eliminate the waistband, which can dig in, and they keep the chamois securely in place. Explore top options in our guide to the best cycling bibs for comfort.

A snug fit improves aerodynamics by reducing wind resistance, and it helps the technical fabric wick sweat away from your skin more effectively. A well-fitted jersey won’t flap in the wind, making for a more comfortable and efficient ride. See our top picks for the best summer jerseys.

Layering is key for winter cycling. Start with a moisture-wicking base layer, add a thermal mid-layer, and finish with a windproof and waterproof outer jacket. Thermal bib tights, winter gloves, and shoe covers are also essential. Check out our guide to the best winter base layers.

Yes, cycling socks are made from synthetic materials that wick moisture away from your feet, preventing blisters and discomfort. They are also thin and snug-fitting to not bunch up inside your cycling shoes. Find the right pair in our review of the best cycling socks.

A cycling cap, worn under the helmet, can provide shade from the sun, absorb sweat, and shield your eyes from rain. The small brim can be flipped up or down as needed, making it a versatile and stylish accessory. See our recommendations for the best cycling caps.

Look for a jacket with a high waterproof rating (measured in mm) and taped seams to prevent leaks. Good breathability is also crucial to allow sweat to escape, so you don’t get wet from the inside. We’ve tested the best options in our guide to waterproof cycling jackets.

Cycling gloves improve grip, absorb road vibrations to reduce hand fatigue, and protect your palms in a crash. Fingerless gloves are great for summer, while full-finger, insulated gloves are essential for winter. Find the right pair in our guide to the best gloves for long rides.

A cycling windbreaker, or wind jacket, is a lightweight, packable outer layer designed to block the wind and provide protection from light showers. It’s an essential piece of kit for cool mornings or long descents. See our top picks in the guide to the best cycling windbreakers.

Reflective vests dramatically increase a cyclist’s visibility to motorists, especially in low-light conditions like dawn, dusk, and at night. Wearing high-visibility and reflective gear is one of the most effective safety measures you can take. Find the best in our guide to reflective vests.

The best men’s cycling shorts or bibs will have a high-quality, multi-density chamois designed for the male anatomy, compressive and breathable fabrics, and comfortable leg grippers. We cover the top models in our guide to the best men’s cycling shorts.

A base layer is a thin, moisture-wicking layer worn next to the skin. In summer, it helps to move sweat away from your body to keep you cool. In winter, a thermal base layer provides insulation while still wicking moisture. Find the right one in our guide to winter base layers.

A helmet should sit level on your head, with the front edge about two finger-widths above your eyebrows. The side straps should form a ‘V’ just below your earlobes, and the chin strap should be snug enough that you can fit no more than one finger between the strap and your chin. See our helmet guide for more.

Road bike shoes have very stiff, smooth soles with a 3-bolt cleat system for maximum power transfer. Mountain bike shoes have a 2-bolt cleat system that is recessed into the sole, along with a treaded outsole that makes walking much easier. Learn more about road shoes here.

Arm and leg warmers are separate sleeves of thermal fabric that can be worn with a short-sleeve jersey and shorts to provide extra warmth on cool days. They are versatile because they can be easily removed and stored in a pocket if the temperature rises during your ride.

For reducing glare, polarized lenses are the best option. They contain a special filter that blocks intense reflected light, reducing eye strain and improving clarity. Many high-end cycling sunglasses offer polarized lens options. See our top picks in the sunglasses guide.

Chamois cream is an anti-bacterial, viscous cream applied to the pad of your cycling shorts (or directly to your skin) to reduce friction and prevent saddle sores. It’s a must-have for anyone doing long-distance rides. You can find it at most good bike shops.

Wash your cycling kit after every ride to prevent bacteria build-up. Use a cold, gentle machine cycle with a sports-specific detergent. Avoid fabric softeners, which can clog the technical fibres, and always hang your gear to air dry rather than using a machine dryer.

Shoe covers are worn over your cycling shoes to provide insulation and protection from wind and rain. They are essential for winter riding to keep your feet warm and dry. Different types are available for various temperature ranges, from lightweight toe covers to heavy-duty neoprene booties.

A hydration pack is a small backpack containing a water reservoir (or bladder) with a hose and bite valve, allowing you to drink hands-free while riding. They are especially popular for mountain biking and long-distance gravel rides where carrying multiple bottles can be difficult. See our guide to the best hydration packs.

Signs that your brakes need adjusting include the brake lever pulling all the way to the handlebar, squealing or grinding noises, or a general lack of stopping power. Regular inspection is a key part of bicycle maintenance to ensure your safety.

Mechanical disc brakes use a steel cable to actuate the caliper, similar to rim brakes. Hydraulic disc brakes use a sealed system of fluid to transfer force from the lever to the caliper, offering more power and better modulation. Learn more in our guide to hydraulic MTB brakes.

Adjusting rim brakes typically involves centering the brake pads on the rim, setting the correct pad height, and adjusting the cable tension with the barrel adjuster. Ensure the pads strike the rim squarely and don’t touch the tyre. For complex issues, consult our maintenance guides.

Disc brake rub is usually caused by a misaligned caliper or a bent rotor. To fix it, loosen the caliper mounting bolts, squeeze the brake lever firmly, and retighten the bolts while holding the lever. If the rotor is bent, it will need to be trued with a special tool.

Bleeding is the process of purging air bubbles from the hydraulic fluid in your brake lines. Air in the system can cause a spongy or inconsistent lever feel and reduce braking power. This is a more advanced maintenance task that requires a specific bleed kit.

Brake pad life depends on your riding style, conditions, and pad compound. Inspect your pads regularly for wear. Most rim brake pads have wear indicator lines, and disc brake pads should be replaced when the braking material is less than 1mm thick. Find new pads in our performance brakes guide.

For ultimate performance, hydraulic disc brakes from brands like Shimano and SRAM are the top choice. They offer superior power, modulation, and all-weather consistency, making them standard on most modern performance road and mountain bikes. See our top picks in the best bike brakes guide.

Upgrading from rim brakes to disc brakes is generally not feasible unless your frame and fork already have the necessary mounting points for disc brake calipers. It also requires new wheels with disc-compatible hubs. It is often more cost-effective to buy a new bike with disc brakes.

Clean your disc brake rotors with isopropyl alcohol and a clean cloth. Avoid using bike cleaners or lubricants near your rotors, as contamination can cause loud squealing and a significant loss of braking power. This is a crucial step in bicycle maintenance.

Brake modulation refers to the ability to finely control the amount of braking power you are applying. Good modulation allows you to slow down smoothly and avoid locking up the wheels, which is especially important in wet or loose conditions. Hydraulic brakes, as detailed in our MTB brakes guide, offer the best modulation.

Hydraulic bike brakes use either DOT fluid (similar to cars) or mineral oil. It is critical to use only the type of fluid specified by the manufacturer (e.g., Shimano uses mineral oil, SRAM uses DOT fluid), as using the wrong type can damage the brake system seals.

Squealing brakes are often caused by contaminated pads or rotors. Start by cleaning the rotors with isopropyl alcohol. If that doesn’t work, you may need to lightly sand the brake pads to remove the contaminated layer or replace them entirely. Proper setup is key, as explained in our maintenance section.

A barrel adjuster is a small, round knob located where the brake cable enters the brake lever or caliper. Turning it allows you to make fine adjustments to the cable tension, which can help to compensate for brake pad wear between major services.

Yes, if you have carbon fibre wheels with rim brakes, you must use brake pads specifically designed for carbon rims. Standard pads can generate excessive heat, which can damage the carbon resin and lead to brake failure. This is a critical safety consideration.

Bedding in is the process of transferring a thin, even layer of pad material onto the rotor. This is done by performing a series of controlled stops from a moderate speed. Proper bedding-in ensures quiet, powerful, and consistent braking performance from your new pads.

A worn brake cable may feel stiff or sluggish at the lever, or you might see frayed strands of wire. It’s important to replace brake cables regularly as part of your bike maintenance routine, as a snapped cable will result in total brake failure.

Generally, no. Mountain bike and road bike brake systems use different cable pull ratios and mounting standards. While some exceptions exist for mechanical disc brakes, it’s best to use components designed for your specific type of bike to ensure safety and performance.

Larger rotors (e.g., 180mm vs 160mm) provide more braking torque and dissipate heat more effectively. This results in more powerful braking and less brake fade on long, steep descents, which is why they are common on downhill and enduro mountain bikes.

Most modern brake levers have a small screw or dial that allows you to adjust the reach, which is the distance from the handlebar to the lever blade. This is an important ergonomic adjustment to ensure you can comfortably and safely operate the brakes, especially for riders with smaller hands.

A triathlon bike is designed for aerodynamics, featuring a steep seat tube angle that positions the rider forward to save energy for the run. A road bike offers more comfort and better handling for group riding. Explore road bike specifics in our beginner’s guide to road bikes.

Aero bars are extensions that mount to the handlebars, allowing the rider to rest their forearms and achieve a more aerodynamic, tucked position. They are a defining feature of time trial and triathlon bikes, designed to reduce wind resistance and increase speed on flat or rolling courses.

A solid disc wheel is used on the rear of time trial bikes because it is extremely aerodynamic. It smooths airflow and acts like a sail in crosswinds, providing a speed advantage. They are not used on the front as they can make steering difficult in windy conditions.

Yes, you can absolutely use a road bike for a triathlon, and it’s a great way to start. You can add clip-on aero bars to a standard road bike to get a more aerodynamic position without the expense of a dedicated triathlon bike. Find a suitable model in our beginner road bike guide.

A time trial (TT) bike is a specific type of bicycle designed purely for speed in a race against the clock. They are aerodynamically optimised in every way, from the frame shape to the rider position, and are used in the time trial stages of races like the Tour de France.

Triathlon bikes are designed for speed in an aerodynamic position, not necessarily for comfort. The aggressive forward position can put more strain on your neck and shoulders. For all-day comfort, an endurance road bike is a better choice.

Triathlon bikes use the same type of clipless pedals as road bikes, such as those from Shimano or Look. These systems provide a secure connection for efficient power transfer. Learn more about pedal options in our guide to the best road cycling pedals.

Many modern triathlon bikes feature hydration systems that are integrated directly into the frame or handlebars. This allows the rider to drink without leaving the aerodynamic position, saving time and energy. It’s a more advanced version of a standard hydration pack.

Placing the shifters on the ends of the aero bars (bar-end shifters) allows the rider to change gears without having to move their hands from the most aerodynamic position. This minimises disruption and helps maintain a consistent speed during a time trial or triathlon.

A virtual triathlon is a race that you complete on your own, using a GPS device to record your swim, bike, and run, and then uploading the data to a race platform. The cycling leg is often completed on an indoor smart trainer using platforms like Zwift.

Drafting is riding closely behind another cyclist to take advantage of the slipstream they create, which significantly reduces wind resistance and saves energy. While drafting is a key tactic in road racing, it is illegal in most age-group triathlons.

A professional bike fit is a process where a trained technician adjusts a bicycle to fit its owner’s body and riding style. This is especially important for triathlon bikes to find the optimal balance between aerodynamics, comfort, and power output. It’s a crucial part of bike setup.

The Ironman World Championship, held annually in Kona, Hawaii, is the most prestigious long-distance triathlon in the world. It consists of a 3.86 km swim, a 180.25 km bicycle ride, and a 42.20 km marathon run. It is the ultimate test of endurance for triathletes.

Deep-section wheels have a deeper rim profile (e.g., 50mm, 60mm, or more) which improves aerodynamics by reducing drag. They are a popular upgrade for road and triathlon bikes to gain a speed advantage, especially on flat and rolling terrain. Many carbon road bikes come with them.

The transition from bike to run (T2) involves racking your bike, taking off your helmet, and quickly changing into your running shoes. Many triathletes use elastic laces in their running shoes to save time. Practicing this transition is key to a fast race time.

A power meter is a device that measures your power output in watts. It is an invaluable tool for triathletes, as it allows you to pace the bike leg perfectly, ensuring you don’t expend too much energy before the run. Learn all about them in our power meter guide.

A tri suit is a one-piece garment designed to be worn for all three disciplines of a triathlon. It is made of a quick-drying material, has a thin chamois pad for comfort on the bike that doesn’t get in the way on the run, and is aerodynamic for the swim.

A standard (or Olympic) distance triathlon consists of a 1.5km swim, 40km bike, and 10km run. A sprint triathlon is a shorter race, typically a 750m swim, 20km bike, and 5km run, making it a great entry point for beginners.

The UCI (Union Cycliste Internationale) has strict regulations for the design of time trial bikes used in professional races, governing everything from the frame tube shapes to the position of the saddle and aero bars. These rules are in place to ensure fairness and safety.

Nutrition and hydration are critically important, especially in longer distance triathlons. Athletes must consume a steady supply of carbohydrates, electrolytes, and fluids during the bike and run legs to avoid ‘bonking’ or running out of energy. A hydration pack can be a useful tool.

You should clean and lubricate your bike chain every 150-200 kilometres, or more often if you ride in wet or muddy conditions. A clean chain runs smoother, quieter, and lasts longer. Find the right lube in our guide to the best bike chain lubes.

To fix a flat, you need to remove the wheel, use tyre levers to take off the tyre, replace the punctured inner tube with a new one, and then carefully reseat the tyre and inflate it. It is a fundamental skill covered in our bicycle maintenance section.

Every cyclist should have a floor pump with a pressure gauge, a set of hex keys (Allen keys), tyre levers, and chain lubricant. A good quality bike multi-tool is also essential for roadside adjustments and repairs.

A bike chain should be replaced when it becomes ‘stretched’ or worn. You can measure this with a chain checker tool. Replacing a worn chain in time will prevent premature wear on your more expensive cassette and chainrings. Find a durable replacement in our guide to the best bike chains.

A torque wrench is a tool that allows you to tighten bolts to a specific, measured tightness. It is crucial for working on modern carbon fibre bikes, where over-tightening bolts can easily damage expensive components. It is a key tool in any serious bike tool kit.

Adjusting your derailleurs involves setting the limit screws (to prevent the chain from falling off) and indexing the gears using the barrel adjuster to ensure smooth shifting. It can be a tricky process, but our maintenance guides can walk you through it.

Use a bucket of soapy water (bike-specific cleaner is best), a soft brush, and a sponge. Avoid using a high-pressure jet wash, as it can force water into sensitive areas like bearings. Rinse thoroughly and dry the bike, then lubricate the chain.

Chain lubes come in ‘wet’ and ‘dry’ formulas. Dry lubes are for dry, dusty conditions as they don’t attract dirt. Wet lubes are for wet conditions as they are more resistant to being washed off. We compare the top options in our all-weather chain lube guide.

A bike repair stand holds your bike off the ground, allowing you to work on it at a comfortable height and spin the wheels and pedals freely. While not essential for basic tasks, it makes almost every maintenance job much easier.

Truing a wheel involves adjusting the tension of the spokes to make the wheel perfectly round and straight. This requires a spoke wrench and, ideally, a truing stand. It is a more advanced skill that takes practice to master.

A CO2 inflator is a small device that uses a pressurised carbon dioxide cartridge to inflate a tyre very quickly. They are a popular, lightweight alternative to a mini-pump for fixing flats on the road or trail. See our top picks in the CO2 inflator guide.

Replacing handlebar tape involves carefully unwrapping the old tape, cleaning the handlebars, and then tightly wrapping the new tape from the bar ends up towards the stem. It’s a great way to refresh the look and feel of your road bike. Find new comfortable grips in our bike grips guide.

The bottom bracket is the set of bearings that the crankset spins on. It needs replacing if it develops a creaking noise that won’t go away, or if the cranks feel rough or have play in them. This job requires specialised tools, as detailed in our maintenance section.

A common method is to set the saddle height so that when your heel is on the pedal at its lowest point, your leg is almost completely straight. When you clip in, you should have a slight bend in your knee. A proper bike fit will give you the most accurate position. Find the right saddle in our saddle guide.

A derailleur hanger is a small, sacrificial piece of metal that connects the rear derailleur to the frame. It is designed to bend or break in a crash to protect the more expensive frame and derailleur from damage. It’s always a good idea to have a spare one.

Use a pump with a built-in pressure gauge. The recommended pressure range is usually printed on the sidewall of the tyre. Road bike tyres require high pressure (80-120 psi), while mountain bike tyres use much lower pressure (20-35 psi). A good bike pump is essential.

The headset is the set of bearings that allows your fork and handlebars to turn smoothly. To check if it’s loose, hold the front brake and rock the bike back and forth. If you feel a knocking or play, it needs adjusting. This is an important safety check.

To patch an inner tube, you first need to locate the puncture, roughen the area with sandpaper, apply a thin layer of vulcanising solution, wait for it to become tacky, and then firmly press the patch over the hole. A good patch can be as reliable as a new tube.

Before every ride, you should perform a quick ‘M-check’. Check your brakes, tyre pressure, and that your wheels are secure. Also, check that your handlebars are straight and nothing is loose. This simple routine is a vital part of safe bicycle maintenance.

Creaks can be notoriously difficult to diagnose. Common culprits include a dirty seatpost, dry pedal threads, loose chainring bolts, or a worn bottom bracket. The best approach is to clean and grease one component at a time until the noise disappears.

A cycling computer is a device that mounts to your handlebars to display ride data like speed, distance, and time. More advanced models include GPS for navigation and can connect to other sensors like heart rate monitors and power meters. Explore our guide to the best GPS bike computers.

A bike computer has a larger screen for better at-a-glance visibility and is dedicated to ride tracking and navigation. A smartwatch is more versatile for all-day activity tracking but has a smaller screen and may have less battery life in GPS mode. See our top picks for the best smartwatches for cycling.

If you want to explore new routes, track your rides without using your phone, or analyse your performance data, a GPS bike computer is an invaluable tool. For casual riding, a basic non-GPS computer might be sufficient. Our cycling computer review can help you decide.

The leading brands in the GPS bike computer market are Garmin, Wahoo, and Hammerhead (now part of SRAM). Each offers a range of models with different features and price points. We take a deep dive into a popular model in our Garmin Edge 1050 review.

A GPS bike computer primarily uses satellite data to calculate your speed. For more accuracy, especially under tree cover or in tunnels, you can pair it with a separate wheel speed sensor that attaches to your bike’s hub.

Yes, a key feature of GPS bike computers is the ability to create routes on a companion app or website (like Strava or Komoot) and sync them to your device for turn-by-turn navigation. This is perfect for exploring new areas. Find a device with great navigation in our GPS computer guide.

ANT+ and Bluetooth are wireless protocols used to connect your bike computer to external sensors like heart rate monitors, speed/cadence sensors, and power meters. Most modern devices support both protocols for wide compatibility.

A heart rate monitor measures your heartbeats per minute, providing a great indication of your effort level during a ride. Training in different heart rate zones is a popular way to improve fitness. See our guide to the best heart rate monitors.

A cadence sensor measures your pedalling speed in revolutions per minute (RPM). Maintaining a steady, efficient cadence (often around 80-100 RPM) is a key cycling skill that can improve endurance and reduce fatigue. Many GPS computers can display cadence data.

Battery life varies by model and usage, but most modern GPS bike computers offer between 15 to 25 hours of runtime on a single charge. Some high-end models, like the Garmin Edge 1050, have even longer battery life or options for external battery packs.

Clipless pedals are a system where a special cleat on the bottom of your cycling shoe clicks into the pedal, securely attaching your foot to the bike. This allows for a more efficient pedal stroke and better control. Explore different types in our guide to the best road cycling pedals.

SPD is a 2-bolt system typically used for mountain biking and commuting, with a small metal cleat that is recessed into the shoe sole, making walking easy. SPD-SL is a 3-bolt system for road cycling, with a larger plastic cleat that provides a wide, stable platform for power transfer. Learn more about road shoe systems here.

There is a small learning curve to using clipless pedals, mainly remembering to twist your heel to unclip before you stop. It’s best to practice in a safe, grassy area until the motion becomes second nature. Most riders find the benefits are well worth the initial practice.

The best pedals for road cycling are typically 3-bolt clipless systems like Shimano SPD-SL or Look Keo. They offer a large, stable platform for excellent power transfer and security during hard efforts. We review the top options in our guide to the best road pedals.

Flat pedals are the traditional style of pedal with a flat surface that you can use with any regular shoe. They are common on commuter and some mountain bikes. For optimal grip, pair them with a good pair of shoes for flat pedals.

Yes, many cyclists use 2-bolt mountain bike pedals (like Shimano SPD) on their road bikes. The main advantage is that the corresponding shoes are much easier to walk in, making them a great choice for commuting, touring, or riders who make frequent stops.

To install pedals, you’ll need a pedal wrench or a hex key. Remember that the left pedal has a reverse thread, so you turn it counter-clockwise to tighten. The right pedal has a standard thread (clockwise to tighten). Always apply a little grease to the pedal threads before installation.

Float is the small amount of rotational movement your foot has while clipped into the pedal. It allows your foot to find its natural position during the pedal stroke, which can help to prevent knee injuries. Different cleats offer different degrees of float (e.g., Shimano SPD-SL cleats come in 0, 2, and 6-degree float options).

Most clipless pedals have a small screw that allows you to adjust the spring tension. This controls how much force is required to clip in and out. Beginners should start with the tension set to the lowest setting to make it easier to release their feet.

For commuting, a dual-sided pedal can be a great option. One side is a flat platform for use with regular shoes, and the other side is a clipless mechanism (usually SPD) for when you’re wearing cycling shoes. This offers the best of both worlds. Find a good commuter bike in our hybrid bike guide.

A cycling power meter is a device that measures the amount of power you are producing, expressed in watts. It is the most accurate way to gauge your effort, as it is not affected by external factors like wind or gradient. Learn the fundamentals in our guide to power meters for cyclists.

Power meters use strain gauges to measure the tiny amount of flex in a component (like a crank arm or pedal spindle) as you pedal. This measurement of torque, combined with your pedalling speed (cadence), is used to calculate your power output in real-time.

While heart rate is a good indicator of your body’s response to effort, it can be affected by factors like fatigue, caffeine, and temperature. Power is a direct measurement of your work output, making it a more consistent and reliable metric for structured training. Compare them in our heart rate monitor guide.

FTP is the highest average power you can sustain for one hour, measured in watts. It is the cornerstone of training with power, as all your training zones are calculated as a percentage of your FTP. You can test your FTP with a 20-minute all-out effort.

Power meters can be located in the crankset (crank arm or spider), pedals, or rear hub. Each type has its own pros and cons regarding accuracy, cost, and ease of installation. Our guide to the best cycling power meters covers the different options.

A single-sided power meter measures the power from one leg (usually the left) and doubles it to estimate your total power output. A dual-sided power meter measures power from both legs independently, providing more accurate data and insights into your left/right power balance.

Pedal-based power meters are an excellent choice because they are easy to install and can be quickly swapped between different bikes. They also typically offer dual-sided power measurement. Explore pedal options in our guide to the best road pedals.

Entry-level, single-sided power meters can start around $400-$600. Dual-sided systems typically range from $800 to $1,500. While it is a significant investment, it is one of the most effective training tools you can buy. See our top picks in the power meter guide.

Yes, you will need a bike computer that is compatible with ANT+ or Bluetooth power meters to display and record your power data. Most modern GPS bike computers from brands like Garmin and Wahoo are compatible.

Power training zones are specific ranges of power output, calculated as a percentage of your FTP. Each zone corresponds to a different training intensity and physiological adaptation, from active recovery to anaerobic efforts. Structured training involves spending specific amounts of time in each zone.

A power meter is the ultimate pacing tool. In a long race or climb, you can ride at a specific, sustainable power target to ensure you don’t go out too hard and fade later on. This is especially crucial in time trials and triathlons. Learn more in our power meter explained article.

Left/right balance, provided by dual-sided power meters, shows you the percentage of power being generated by each leg. While a perfect 50/50 split is rare, a significant imbalance could indicate a bike fit issue or a muscular imbalance that needs addressing.

Most power meters require a process called ‘zero-offsetting’ before each ride. This calibrates the strain gauges to ensure accurate readings. It is a simple process that is done through your bike computer and usually takes only a few seconds.

A power meter itself won’t make you faster, but the data it provides will allow you to train much more effectively. By following a structured training plan based on your power zones, you can target specific physiological improvements that will lead to significant gains in speed and endurance.

Power-to-weight ratio, measured in watts per kilogram (w/kg), is a key indicator of climbing performance. A professional male cyclist might have an FTP of over 6 w/kg, while a good amateur racer might be around 4-5 w/kg. For most enthusiasts, anything over 3 w/kg is very respectable.

Reputable power meters are typically accurate to within +/- 1.5%. While absolute accuracy is important, consistency is even more so. A consistent power meter will allow you to track your progress reliably over time, even if it reads slightly high or low compared to another unit.

Yes, a power meter is a great way to improve your experience on Zwift and other indoor cycling platforms. It will provide more accurate power data than the estimated power from a basic turbo trainer, making your virtual racing and training more realistic. See our guide to the best smart trainers.

Beyond basic power, many systems offer advanced metrics like Pedal Smoothness, Torque Effectiveness, and detailed power phase analysis. These can help you to improve your pedalling technique for greater efficiency. Some of these are detailed in our workout analysis article.

While not essential for a complete beginner, a power meter can be a fantastic investment for any cyclist who is serious about improving. It provides structure and objectivity to your training from day one, which can lead to faster and more consistent progress.

After your ride, your power data can be uploaded to platforms like Strava, TrainingPeaks, or Garmin Connect. These platforms provide tools to analyse your performance, track your fitness over time, and see how you performed on specific segments or intervals.

Women-specific bikes often feature different geometry, such as a shorter top tube and taller head tube, to accommodate average female body proportions. They also typically come with a women’s saddle, narrower handlebars, and shorter crank arms. Explore the specifics in our women’s cycling gear guide.

Not necessarily. Many women find a comfortable fit on a unisex or men’s bike, sometimes with a few component swaps like the saddle or stem. The most important thing is to choose a bike that fits you correctly, regardless of its label. See our guide on women’s bikes for comfort.

The best mountain bikes for women will have a good fit, appropriate suspension travel for the type of trails you ride, and reliable components. Many brands offer women-specific MTB models with custom-tuned suspension. Find your next trail bike in our mountain bike guide.

Look for a lightweight frame, components that fit your body (saddle, handlebars), and a geometry that matches your riding style (e.g., endurance for comfort, race for speed). Our guide to the best beginner road bikes has great options for everyone.

Beyond the bike itself, the most essential items are a quality helmet, a comfortable women-specific saddle, and a good pair of padded cycling shorts or bibs. We cover all the must-haves in our ultimate guide to women’s cycling gear.

A women-specific saddle is designed to support female anatomy, with a shape that relieves pressure on soft tissues and supports the sit bones correctly. It is arguably the single most important component for a female cyclist’s comfort. Find the right one in our saddle comfort guide.

The best padded shorts for women will have a chamois that is specifically shaped for the female anatomy, a comfortable, non-restrictive waistband, and soft, compressive fabrics. We review the top options in our guide to the best women’s padded shorts.

While most helmets are unisex, some brands offer female-specific models that may come in different colourways or have features like a ponytail-compatible retention system. The most important factor is a correct and secure fit. See our helmet trends guide for more.

A hardtail mountain bike has suspension in the front (a suspension fork) but a rigid rear end. They are simpler, lighter, and often more affordable than full-suspension bikes, making them a great choice for beginners or for smoother trails. Explore options in our hardtail guide.

A full-suspension mountain bike has both front and rear suspension, which provides more comfort and control on rough, technical terrain. They are ideal for serious trail and downhill riding. Find the right one for you in our guide to full-suspension bikes.

Cyclocross (or CX) is a unique discipline of cycling that involves racing on a short, off-road circuit with grass, dirt, mud, and obstacles that require the rider to dismount and carry their bike. Races are typically short and intense, lasting around an hour.

A cyclocross bike looks similar to a road bike but is designed for off-road racing. It features knobby tyres for grip, powerful brakes (usually disc brakes), and more clearance in the frame to prevent mud build-up. The geometry is also more aggressive for sharp, fast cornering.

While similar, cyclocross bikes are built for racing, with aggressive geometry for quick handling. Gravel bikes are designed for long-distance comfort and stability on varied terrain, with a more relaxed geometry and often more tyre clearance. Explore gravel bikes in our gravel bike guide.

Yes, a cyclocross bike can be a very versatile “do-it-all” bike. By swapping the knobby tyres for a set of slick road tyres, you can use it for road riding, commuting, and light touring, making it a great one-bike solution for many riders.

Cyclocross tyres are typically 33mm wide (the maximum allowed in UCI races) and have various tread patterns for different conditions, from fast-rolling file treads for dry courses to aggressive mud tyres for wet, sloppy races. Tyre choice is a key part of cyclocross strategy.

Cyclocross courses are designed with obstacles like barriers, steep run-ups, or sand pits that are too difficult or slow to ride over. This forces riders to dismount, shoulder their bike, and run, adding a unique and challenging element to the sport.

A 1x (pronounced “one-by”) drivetrain has a single chainring at the front and a wide-range cassette at the back. This simplifies the bike by eliminating the front derailleur and shifter, making it lighter and more reliable in muddy conditions. It is the most common setup on modern cyclocross and gravel bikes.

Before disc brakes became common, cantilever brakes were the standard for cyclocross. They are a type of rim brake that offers good mud clearance, but they are less powerful and consistent than modern disc brakes. You will still find them on older or more traditional cyclocross bikes.

Look for a local cyclocross race series in your area. Most events have beginner-friendly categories, and the community is known for being very welcoming. You don’t need a specific cyclocross bike to start; a gravel or mountain bike will often be allowed in the beginner races.

Key cyclocross skills include fast dismounts and remounts, cornering on loose surfaces, and carrying the bike efficiently. Practicing these skills is just as important as your physical fitness. Many clubs offer skills clinics for beginners.

Black Friday is the day after the American Thanksgiving holiday, which falls on the fourth Thursday of November. It marks the traditional start of the Christmas shopping season and is known for significant sales and discounts across many retailers, including bike shops.

Yes, Black Friday can be an excellent time to buy a new bike. Many brands and retailers offer discounts on previous season’s models to make way for new stock. It’s a great opportunity to get a high-quality bike at a lower price. Keep an eye on our homepage for deal roundups.

You can find deals on almost everything, including clothing, helmets, shoes, components, and trainers. It’s a particularly good time to buy expensive electronics like GPS computers or smart trainers, as these often see significant price drops.

Start by making a list of what you need and research the products in advance. Sign up for newsletters from your favourite brands and retailers to get early notifications of sales. Cycling news sites like CyclingTrend often publish comprehensive deal roundups, so check back frequently.

For cycling deals, online retailers often have a wider selection and more competitive pricing. However, your local bike shop might have exclusive in-store offers or be willing to price-match, so it’s worth checking both.

Cyber Monday is the Monday following Black Friday and is another major online shopping day. Many Black Friday sales continue through the weekend and into Cyber Monday, sometimes with additional or different deals offered.

Yes, Black Friday has become a major sales event in Australia, with most local and international retailers participating. It’s one of the biggest shopping periods of the year, alongside Boxing Day sales. Check our Australian bike sales guide for tips.

While there are many genuine bargains, it’s wise to be a savvy shopper. Some deals may be on older, less desirable products, or the original price may have been inflated to make the discount look bigger. Always check product reviews and compare prices before buying.

Absolutely. As Black Friday falls just as the Northern Hemisphere heads into winter, it’s the perfect time to buy an indoor trainer. Brands like Wahoo and Tacx often offer their most significant discounts of the year. See our guide to the best smart trainers to find the right one.

Black Friday is an excellent time to stock up on cycling clothing. You can often find great deals on end-of-season summer kit, or get a discount on new winter gear like winter gloves and waterproof jackets.

SPD stands for Shimano Pedaling Dynamics. It is a system of clipless pedals and cleats developed by Shimano that has become an industry standard, especially for mountain biking, commuting, and indoor cycling. The small, 2-bolt metal cleat is a key feature.

A cleat is the part that attaches to the sole of your cycling shoe, which then clips into the clipless pedal. This creates a secure connection between you and your bike for improved pedalling efficiency. Different pedal systems use different, incompatible cleats.

SPD cleats are small, 2-bolt metal cleats used for off-road and casual riding, allowing for walkable shoes. SPD-SL cleats are larger, 3-bolt plastic cleats used for road racing, providing a wider, more stable platform. Learn more in our road shoe guide.

SPD cleats attach to shoes with two bolts. The general starting position is to place the cleat so that the ball of your foot is over the pedal axle. You can then adjust the position forward, backward, and rotationally to find your most comfortable and efficient position.

Shimano offers two types of SPD cleats: single-release (SH-51) and multi-release (SH-56). Single-release cleats disengage only by twisting your heel outwards. Multi-release cleats can disengage by twisting your heel in either direction or by pulling up hard, making them easier for beginners to get out of.

You should replace your cleats when they become worn and no longer provide a secure connection to the pedal. For SPD cleats, this is when the metal starts to look thin or rounded. For SPD-SL cleats, the coloured wear indicators will show when it is time for a replacement.

While many brands make pedals that are ‘SPD-compatible’, it is always recommended to use cleats from the same manufacturer as your pedals. This ensures the best possible fit, performance, and safety, as small design differences can affect how securely the cleat engages and releases.

You need shoes with a 2-bolt drilling pattern on the sole. This includes mountain bike shoes, touring shoes, and casual-looking urban cycling shoes. This system is very versatile, as you can see in our guide to flat pedal shoes versus clipless.

This could be due to high pedal tension, or mud and debris clogging the mechanism. Try cleaning the pedal and cleat, and reduce the tension using the adjustment screw. A small spray of silicone lubricant on the pedal springs can also help.

Some SPD pedals, designed for trail or enduro mountain biking, feature a larger platform or cage around the clipless mechanism. This provides extra support for your foot and protects the pedal from rock strikes, offering more stability on rough terrain.